Tuesday, May 25, 2010

Slow and steady wins the race

In contrast to my last post, this one takes a few hours to do. But it is worth every second! Osso buco is an Italian stew originated from Milan. Loosely translated from Italian it means "hollow bones." Hence the name, it is made of veal shanks (with a bone in the middle) cooked in meat broth, and flavored with white wine and vegetables. Slowly braised, this tough, yet flavorful cut of meat becomes melt-in-your-mouth tender, and the connective tissues and marrow dissolve into the sauce, making it rich and creamy. This dish can be fabulous or just mediocre. A really good osso buco has that tangy, rich depth of flavor that can only be obtained by layering flavors.

A risotto has been the perfect match for a pot of Osso buco. I made a saffron risotto, which gives a very attractive shade of yellow to be topped off with the dark and rich osso buco gravy. Risotto is an Italian rice that is quite time consuming to make. But when done right, it is rich and creamy while still al dente! What you get at a restaurant will never compare to a homemade risotto that wasn't effected by the dinner rush.

Osso Buco
1. In a Dutch oven with a tight-fitting lid, heat:2 T olive oil over medium high heat
2. Season:
4 veal shanks with salt and pepper on both sides
3. Brown them on all sides. Then remove the shanks to a plate, set aside
4. Add to the same pot:
2 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
2 Tbsp. butter
1 red onion, coarsely chopped
½ green bell pepper, coarsely chopped
½ red bell pepper, coarsely chopped
3 carrots, peeled and coarsely chopped
1 large stalk celery, coarsely chopped
5-6 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
5. Stir well to coat, then cover. Sweat the vegetables for about 10 minutes
6. Then deglaze with:
1/3 cup Marsala wine (or dry sherry)
1/3 cup brandy
1 T balsamic vinegar
7. Simmer for 5 minutes
8. Add:
2 T tomato paste
1 sprig rosemary
4 sprigs thyme
2 bay leaves
9. Simmer for a few minutes
10. Add:
The reserved browned shanks
2 cups chicken broth
11. Then put your Dutch oven in a 325 F preheated oven and cook for 1-1.5 hours.
12. When it's time to take your dutch oven out, remove the shanks to a plate then strain the sauce.
The dish is to be garnished with a gremolata mixture:
Combine:
2 T chopped Italian Parsley
1 clove garlic, minced
½ t grated lemon peel
1 T lemon juice

About half an hour before the Osso Buco comes out of the oven, prepare your risotto.
In a small sauce pan, heat about 4-6 cups of chicken broth and a tsp. of crushed saffron. Keep simmered while preparing the rice.
In a saute pan, heat:
2 Tbsp. olive oil
then add:
1 Tbsp. minced shallots
After the the shallot is fragrant, add:
2 cups short-grained round or semi-round rice; among the best rices for making risotti are Arborio, Vialone Nano, and Carnaroli.
Saute the rice until translucent, about 7-10 minutes
Heat up about 1/2 cup of white wine in the microwave then pour the hot wine over the rice and stir (if it is cold you will shock the rice, which will flake on the outside and stay hard at the core).
Once the wine has evaporated completely, add a ladle of simmering broth; stir in the next before all the liquid is absorbed, because if the grains get too dry they will flake.
Continue cooking, stirring and adding broth as the rice absorbs it, until the rice barely reaches the al dente stage (if you want your risotto firm, time your additions of broth so that the rice will finish absorbing the broth when it reaches this stage; if you want it softer, time the additions so there will still be some liquid left).
Stir in a tablespoon of butter and the grated cheese, cover the risotto, turn of heat. Let it sit, covered, for two to three minutes.

Serve your risotto with a ladle or two of the osso buco sauce, top with a veal shank, and garnish with the gremolata mixture.


This dish takes quite a bit of time and effort, but the result is worth it. This can easily cost $40/plate at a nice Italian restaurant. But making it at home will cost you about $20 to have a dinner party of four. The tangy and rich flavor of the stew together with the creaminess of the risotto will keep your guests coming back for more!

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